CARPE DIEM IN THESE GOLDEN YEARS

It’s been six months since I last blogged and I apologize. I have never put myself on a schedule and have written as I am so moved. I came across this quote this week and it helps to explain that life just got in the way.

It’s not nothing…but creative writing does not allow for distraction.

December was off to a busy start with the visit of a friend from Atlanta. It was his first trip to Europe and his excitement was great. I invited him to begin his trip in the south, flying first to Toulouse. Then after a brief visit here, we would take the train together to Paris where I would give him my 5-penny tour. I hadn’t been to Paris in a while so I was up for it.

His flight was delayed so his evening arrival prevented us from seeing Toulouse. The reality became a tour the next day of Carcassonne’s La Cité (the medieval city of Carcassonne). It is visually impressive, so it made for a great start. 

The day flew by so there wasn’t a lot of time to visit vineyards as I had hoped. But we did make a stop at one favorite, Château Auzias and nearby Pennautier whose mansion has been called “The Versailles of the South.”

The next day we took a TGV train to Paris arriving into the Gare de Lyon famous for its restaurant, Le Train Bleu. I had read about it but never had the chance to visit. So I took my friend for a drink. It was fun and a nice way to toast his first visit to Paris. 

We made our way to the hotel in the Marais and spent the next few days touring. I put him on a tour bus so he could have an overview. I made sure he saw La Conciergerie and Sainte-Chapelle followed by a delicious dinner in Place Dauphine at one of my favorite restaurants. Our last evening we went to Montmartre for dinner to see the view, Sacre Coeur and Place du Tertre with dinner at La Mère Catherine – another favorite. 

While he was on the tour bus, I took the opportunity to visit several places that I’ve never had the opportunity to see. It’s pretty astounding when I think about it, but I attribute it to priorities as well as not having knowledge of their existence and importance. 

The first stop was the Pantheon which came into recent awareness with the symbolic interment of Josephine Baker (her actual remains will stay in a cemetery in Monaco). In addition, I visited Église Saint-Étienne, the Sorbonne, and the Cluny Museum which I just happened upon. 

The Pantheon is a very impressive building and the former church of Saint Geneviéve, patron saint of Paris. In the late 19^th century it was converted into a mausoleum for highly esteemed French citizens like Voltaire, Marie Curie, Dumas, Victor Hugo, Braille, etc. I’m glad I went.

The Église Saint-Étienne sits behind the Pantheon and is equally impressive with beautiful stained glass and intriguing interior architecture. 

In November 2019 as I was flying to Paris to consummate the sale of my new home, I happened to sit next to a woman who was a professor at the Sorbonne. It raised my awareness and she offered to give me a tour. Sadly, we never met for that tour and she has since moved to New York City. As it is in the same neighborhood as the Pantheon, I stopped to see its interior courtyard. Closed to the public, I talked my way in and relished the historic intellectual energy its imposing walls contain. 

Leaving the Sorbonne, I happened upon the Musée de Cluny. The museum actually incorporates two historic structures: the ancient Roman baths and the Paris mansion of the Abbey of Cluny creating a museum of the Middle Ages. I didn’t have time to go in but it’s on my list to see on a future visit. 

Being the Christmas season, I wanted to the see the display in the rotunda of the Galeries Lafayette. It was worth it. 

I departed Paris Sunday morning to return in time for my classes Monday. My friend stayed another day and made the most of it, now having some familiarity and confidence to get around on his own. 

Christmas was spent with friends here in Montréal. They are a mixed American/Norwegian & British couple with four sons, all pursuing their careers in different ways between London, Berlin and Brussels. I always enjoy their company. 

As I had no plans, they took me to dinner for my birthday which falls between Christmas and New Year’s. We have recently discovered a gastronomic restaurant: Chez David in Castelnaudary, less than a half-hour’s drive north and infamous as the home of the cassoulet. The chef is talented and, with 12 people at the table including assorted girlfriends and houseguests, it made for a great celebration.

New Year’s Eve I went to a delightful party of mixed French and anglos and contracted COVID – my first bout and hopefully my last. 

Since then I have probably sat down four or five times to start a blog post only to be interrupted by something in terms of household maintenance, my classes, or visitors. Now that COVID seems to be behind us, everyone wants to come to France.  It’s all good, but it does take up time and energy.

My classes keep me busy. I have three French classes and had some beginners join us in January so that meant laying the foundation for understanding the language while, at the same time, try to move those already in the group forward. It was challenging.

Up until recently, I never really appreciated the term “The Golden Years.” I simply pictured a couple of smiling, well-groomed senior citizens playing golf and living a life of leisure. I didn’t have a gut feel for the sentiment being conveyed. But these last few months have been reflective. For me, it is having the time and luxury to do as I wish without the constraints of work and serious responsibility while having good health and stability. These years are a gift. Retirement doesn’t necessarily mean slowing down and I am proof. 

Life has always been an adventure and I’ve always sought new opportunities to experience it: Carpe diem! I suppose that explains why I have pursued the study of so many different things. I like to learn and grow. Reading is another passion. 

I am an avid reader on many topics. Fortunately my anglo friends here are good about sharing their books so we keep one another stimulated with the latest or classics that are worth the time. At the same time I’ve been comfortable enough with my language skills to pick up books in French. Here are a few.

The first is entitled Quand Vous Serez en France (When You Are in France) written by the British government for their soliders coming to France during World War II. It details French perceptions of the war, the Germans and Allied involvement as well as cultural mores and faux pas to avoid. It was translated into French for the French people as it is a curious assessment of themselves and their culture and I suspect curious enough that they wanted to know what the Brits thought of them. It’s well done and inspirational – I suppose its ulterior intent for the solders. 

The other is Les Cathares 700 Ans Plus Tard, L’Ésotérisme Cathare et son Message Pour Aujourd’hui (The Cathars 700 Years Later, Cathar Esotericism and Its Message For Today). The Cathars were an interesting lot, considered heretics largely because they didn’t feel a need for priests, churches or the hierarchy of the Roman Catholic Church. St. Dominic’s futile attempt to negotiate with them in my village of Montréal in 1207 on behalf of Pope Innocent III led to the Inquisition in which they were eventually eradicated. The introduction to this book is interesting because it states they may have been on to something. 

Another book I picked up on this topic is Catharisme et Chrétienté (Catharism and Christianity) which I am looking forward to reading to get another perspective.

Perhaps the most controversial of the lot is Et si tout n’était que mensonge? (What If It’s All A Lie?). In the late 19^th century, a priest in the village of Rennes-le-Château, 32 km south of my village, came into untold and unexplained wealth. There has been much speculation as to its origins, the most plausible being either discovery of buried jewels from a deceased aristocrat or discovery of the treasures of the Knights Templar which have never been found. 

Related to this village and even more fascinating is the story of The Three Marys landing by boat in France following the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. An even bolder allegation is that Christ himself didn’t die on the cross, but was sedated by Egyptian physicians, whisked out of Israel on this same boat with the three Marys, then settling in Rennes-le-Château. As one archaeologist wrote, we’ll never know the truth unless Jesus wrote, likely in seclusion because of the strong Roman presence here at the time, and his writings are one day discovered in a cave…. Wild stuff, but intriguing nonetheless. 

This latter book attempts to sift through available information to draw conclusions. It is likely more fantasy than anything else, but I am sure it will be an interesting read. 

My stack of books to read is very tall…. My source for books in English has been Bookdepository.com which shipped for free from England to France. But it was acquired by Amazon and shut down in April. I had a wish list of some 13 books so decided to order them all before it became impossible. Add to that other accumulated books languishing for a read, I have 22 books in my stack. 

My current focus of attention is on Charles Dickens David Copperfield because of the new Pulitzer Prize winner Demon Copperhead which is a retake on the story based in West Virginia. Not ever having read David Copperfield, I decided to pick them both up and am starting with Dickens’ story first. I am enjoying it, but struck by the formality of that age. 

I love to read. And that includes the news, analyses, history, and anything to do with France. One of the blogs I follow is Southern Fried French by Lynn McBride. Originally from Charleston, South Carolina, Lynn and her husband have lived in Burgundy, France for over 20 years. I am leading a group of friends on a tour of Burgundy late September and early October and hope to meet her. Her blog of May 18, 2023 was entitled Should You, Could You, Move to France?

Lynn asked for readers’ thoughts on the topic so I offered mine. Being the first to comment, I spelled it out – both the good and the bad. Not that there’s anything really bad about moving to France. It’s all good. It’s just missing family and friends that is the one thing I find the most difficult. 

It’s a hot topic. Last November, I saw this post quoting Bloomberg on the Facebook page of the group Americans Living in France.

Then this week a friend sent me this article written by a Nigerian woman who moved from New York City to Paris in 2011. Her summary of the French perspective is probably one of the best things I’ve ever read on the topic of joie de vivre. It’s worth a read.

As this author notes, life is very good in France. I’ve come to the conclusion that one should have their career in the US to generate the funds, then move for retirement to France for the quality of life IF you can handle the distance from your loved ones. 

I was just back in Atlanta three weeks ago to marry my niece. It was a quick trip – just four days there. Every time I return I feel the letdown, immediately missing the family and friends I have just visited. The last few visits have been tempered by the realization that I love where I live and I love the life I have created here.

It was five years ago this month that I decided to buy my house. I am adjusting. I am making friends but also realize I need to get out more to socialize. Staying home despite the variety of stimulating intellectual pursuits is not always a good thing.

My desk is positioned at the rear window overlooking my terrasse, the rolling hills and the Pyrénées Mountains about 60 miles away. The view is soothing and nurtures my inner being. I have said often my village is perfect for retirement. Life is simple here. It’s quiet. Natural beauty abounds and my French neighbors have been not only welcoming, but warm and supportive. These are my golden years and I intend to make the most of them.