Food

Fall is my favorite season. This year it was especially welcomed as we kissed summer and its record-breaking heat goodbye. 

September brought unusual humidity so despite my efforts to contain energy usage (given the war in Ukraine and the French government’s request for all residents to cut back in preparation for a cold winter), I was forced on a few days to turn on the air conditioning. Some days were just too intolerable.

Last week I went for the walk I love so much in the vineyards just outside the village. A storm was expected and the clouds were beautiful. Fortunately the storm didn’t materialize here. But I enjoyed the distant drama.

This week has been pleasant. Yesterday we had sunshine and temperatures in the low 70s (around 21 C). I opened the windows and smelled the fresh fragrance of my laundry drying in the sun. (Have I ever told you about how wonderfully aromatic French laundry detergents can be?)

I’m pretty much caught up on my “To Do” list and so was enjoying a relaxed day before I had my online French class later in the afternoon. Between the weather, the views and an overall sense of satisfaction, I was reminded of how good life is here in retirement. 

It was four years this week that I purchased my home.  Following the signing, I spent a few delightful weeks settling in, then headed back to the US to finish what had to be done in preparation for the move. I arrived in February 2019 and the rest is history.

Living in France has some downsides, especially if one is new and wanting to experience it all. The biggest for me is the food. It’s wonderful. It’s adventurous. And there’s lots to sample at nearly every turn. But it’s easy to overdo. One problem switching countries, however, is that there are products one is used to using on a daily basis that may be hard to find or you just can’t get. 

It’s been four years and we are all seeing inflation, but my impression is that for the most part, food costs are pretty comparable. An exception would be seasonally imported items like cranberries. The cranberries I purchased last week are 3.50 euros for 200 grams. Compared to the US, I know these are very expensive.

One of the things I miss is corned beef. It just doesn’t exist (as far as I can tell) though I recently found six slices of pastrami at the local épicerie for 4 euros. It was good, but not as flavorful and very thin.

What we don’t lack for, as you can imagine, is cheese. Former President Charles de Gaulle has been quoted as saying “How can you rule a country that has a different cheese for every day of the year?” Here are two photos of the cheese department at one of the local supermarchés. And as if it wasn’t big enough, there are three more aisles completely dedicated to other packaged cheeses.

And, no surprise, there is an abundance of paté.

While Facebook has its issues, there are several groups that have been very helpful in making the move and settling in. Once here, these groups have continued to be great resources of information and experience. As David Lebovitz reported, there are some uniquenesses and we have to learn the alternatives. One of the Facebook groups that has been particularly helpful is called Cooking in France and a great “go-to” when I’m trying to figure out where to find an ingredient or its substitute, a cut of meat, etc. 

Examples of items hard-to-find, if not impossible, include peanut butter, aluminum-free baking powder, corn syrup, mango chutney, corn bread mix, mini-marshmallows, dried onion flakes, pepperoni, and other seasonings. 

When I return to the US, my shopping list includes a variety of things that may not be available or their prices here are significantly higher. These include pine nuts, black peppercorns, stevia, pecans, chocolate chips, raisins, bacon crumbles, smoked almonds, graham crackers, maraschino cherries and even baking soda (not that it isn’t available, but for cooking purposes, it comes in small quantities and is far more expensive).

Costco France (with two locations now near Paris, not convenient but a stopover when I drive up) offers some of their branded items like aluminum foil, plastic wrap and spices. So I pick up these items at least once a year – especially crunchy peanut butter! It’s pricey at 9.99 euros for the large, 40 oz. jar, but I consider it a small indulgence and a real treat. Besides loving the crunch, I find it is particularly useful on a low-carb diet to energize first thing in the morning.

As a mecca for the art of baking, the everyday shopper in France has the option of several types of flour depending upon the need. It has been interesting to learn about them. David Lebovitz covers that topic in the blog post referenced earlier. 

Not long after moving to France, I discovered a boulangerie supply house in Carcassonne, just 12 km away called FOBOPA, an abbreviation for Fournitures Boulangeries Patisseries. They not only serve the trade, but are open to the public and make available a whole array of equipment and supplies including chocolate, a powder to make creme patissière, tart pans, cake rings, paper baking containers, etc. It has been a real goldmine. 

I’ve come to find some pretty good French substitutes for things like chicken bouillon. There was an American product I loved called Better than Bouillon. It was a flavorful paste and came in a large jar that was perfect when called for. It isn’t available here and heavy to transport so I’m happy to say I’ve found an excellent substitute. It’s called Fond du Volaille. In fact, the manufacturer has a variety of similar products with flavors including beef, chicken, pot au feu, veal, etc.  Coming in a powder, they not only flavor, but thicken. Another flavor gives a roasted chicken taste. I’ve not tried it but will have to soon. 

I’ve also discovered KUB seasoning which provides a vegetable base for almost any recipe. Sometimes I’ll take a cube of that or a tablespoon of the Fond du Volaille and make a broth. Both are tasty on a cold day.

Another challenge can be finding things in the store. They aren’t always where you might expect them. For example, in the US I was accustomed to finding all things related to baking in one aisle. Not here. The seasonings are separated from the salts. Flour, baking powder and baking soda are usually elsewhere. Add-ons like chocolate chips and reasons could be anywhere.

One delight has been to discover the butter from Bretagne and Normandy. I have become a huge fan of the demi-sel (half-salt) for everything but baking for which I use the doux (sweet) formulation. They’re not inexpensive at around 5 euros for 500 grams (about a pound). But It’s worth it. I don’t remember who said it, but I agree that “You can never have enough butter.” It adds not only rich flavor to gravies, sauces and plain vegetables, but also acts as a thickening agent. When I cook, I am generous with the butter and always have back-ups in the freezer in case I run out. On my low-carb diet it has absolutely no impact on my cholesterol.

Another adjustment for an American is the flavor of steaks. The entrecôte steaks I have ordered in restaurants just don’t have the richness of flavor we seem to have in the US. There are several explanations. One is the soil that affects the grain that then affects those who eat the grain: beef cattle. This also has an effect on the taste of dairy byproducts: e.g., butter and cheeses. You win some, you lose some.

Another reason for the different taste is aging of the meat. Beef in the US is hung to obtain flavor. Not so in France where the meat is far fresher. I don’t know why there is this difference in approach, but the French seem to be happy with what they have. I commented on this just last week and was told that the French don’t necessarily like American steaks when they travel to the US for the same reason. I had friends visiting from Paris a couple of years ago and we barbequed côtes de boeuf obtained from a reputable butcher in our neighboring village of Bram. These steaks were the closest I’ve had to the flavor of American steaks. They were awesome! I need to do more exploring, but restaurant steaks are usually disappointing.

Food aside, it has been fun discovering alternatives to products like Soft Scrub. I found that in one called Cif. It’s virtually the same thing and does the trick. 

In the US we have Mr. Clean. The French word for something that is clean is propre. So here, the product with the same image is called Mr. Propre. Amusing!

Non-food items I like to purchase in the US also include things like Ziploc bags because they are much sturdier, turkey roasting bags, duct tape (horrendously expensive by comparison), vitamins, and some personal care products like facial scrub. 

Over-the-counter products for personal health tend to be much more expensive in France. Because pharmaceutical products and their prices are highly regulated, I assume it is the manufacturer’s way of making profit since on the prescribed products, they cannot. So it is products like these that, after price comparisons, I opt to buy when I can in the US. An example is hydrogen peroxide. The supermarket in Atlanta offered 16 oz. for $0.97. Here, a small 250 ml bottle (half the amount and called Eau Oxygénée) costs around 3 euros. With the euro and dollar nearly being at parity at the moment, it is roughly three times the price in France. Another example is witch hazel. A small bottle here cost 16 euros at the local pharmacy!

Another staple that might call for adjustment is toilet paper. If you’ve experienced France, you know it is of different quality in looser and smaller packages and rolls just don’t last as long. Fortunately Costco imports their branded paper and it’s worth picking up when visiting Costco Paris. I have an agreement with my friends Gayle & Bernard as they too are Costco fans. Whenever one of us goes to Costo, we pick up TP for both of us. Fortunately they are in Paris with some frequency for their research, so we manage. This past summer they had some research in Spain so made a stop at the Bilbao Costco which is only four hours away (vs. seven hours to Paris). So we all benefited. 

Aside from scarcity of familiar products, another downside for someone moving to France is the desire and temptation to try everything. As I have a sweet tooth and love baking, sampling was initially an imperative. And with that came weight gain to the highest level I have ever attained. The good news is that I have been diligent in dieting for the past year and have lost 17 kg (37 lbs). I’m at a weight I’ve not seen in probably 40 years. It feels good. Having reached my goal, I can now occasionally have something I wouldn’t ordinarily eat. Last night, for example, stimulated by an Italian movie whose central theme was food, I made fettucini carbonara with garlic, parmesan and olive oil. It was blissful. And surprisingly, it didn’t seem to affect my weight as I made it to the scale this morning. Yay!!

We are also fortunate to have an abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables. Rosemary grows on the main thoroughfare of my village. If I need some, I just go pick it. A bay tree is around the corner. Similarly, I just grab a few leaves when I need them.

My neighbor has a fig tree that hangs over my deck. She has invited me to help myself. I used some recently for an appetizer stuffing fresh figs with goat cheese and a splash of honey. I’ve frozen more figs to make a tart in the future. I freeze a lot of things when I don’t have an occasion to use them and definitely can’t make these kinds of things for myself or else I’d be back to the diet in a big hurry.

I have two small kumquat trees that have done exceptionally well this year. They must have loved the heat. Their flowers are amazing with rich perfumes that are noticeable just walking past them. Soon I’ll have some fresh kumquats that will end up in something. Two years ago I made marmalade. But I’ll stick them in the freezer until I need to make a dessert. Maybe they’ll end up in a tart. I have an amazing tangerine tart recipe for which I think they’d be a fine substitute.

We also have lots of almond trees in the region and one can pick fresh almonds roadside if so inclined. I’ve picked a few on my hikes for the fun of it, but otherwise just buy them locally and in bulk at Costco.

Over the years I have accumulated a vast library of recipes. As soon as computers became available, I began to digitalize my collection. Still, I have a number of cookbooks that I cherish mostly for inspiration as well as souvenirs of some great meals under great chefs. There are also method books which serve as texts from both the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY and the French Culinary Institute in New York City which is sadly no longer. I took courses at both institutions and these books have been useful in many ways. Jacques Pepin was one of the founders of the French Culinary Institute and I had the pleasure of meeting him at a fundraiser in Manhattan. An autographed copy of his book, New Complete Techniques was given to me as a gift. A great memory. 

Another souvenir book is from 1884, one of the hallmark restaurants of Chef Francis Mallman in Mendoza, Argentina. On my first trip there, I arrived at 8 PM (early by Argentinan standards). The only other diners at that point included a small group of Norwegians. My waiter told me Chef Mallman happened to be there that night so I asked him if he could tell the Chef I’d like to meet him. Since it was early, he wasn’t busy so I invited him to order a bottle of wine he thought suitable for the dinner I had ordered and share it with me. We talked for over an hour. It was thrilling. 

I went back to Mendoza with my godson after he graduated from law school. He bought me an autographed copy of Mallman’s Seven Fires – Grilling the Argentine Way. Another memory I treasure.

I am a fan of David Lebovitz and had the chance to meet him at a book-signing at Barnes & Noble on Park Avenue in NYC when I was still living in Jersey City. There I picked up his new book Ready for Dessert – My Best Recipes which he graciously signed for me. David lives in Paris with his partner and has a delightful blog to which, if you’re a foodie, you might want to subscribe. 

The last of my autographed “souvenir” books is Home Cooking with Jean George. I had one of the best meals of my life at his Columbus Circle restaurant in NYC with two students from the University of Michigan whom I had met at a Michigan alumni event in Manhattan. We became friends and, falling in love with NYC, they returned often staying in my apartment. The 18-course tasting menu was their thanks though I picked up the cost of the wine pairings (equal to the cost of the meal – it was that expensive). Jean George also graced our table and we were delighted to meet him. Unforgettable. 

Who could call themself a chef if they didn’t have something from Julia Child? I have her bible Mastering the Art of French Cooking as well as a later book My Life in France. I also have the English translation of what is considered the homemaker’s bible of French cooking by Ginette Mathiot entitled I Know How To Cook. 

My first ever French cookbook was published in 1959 by Joseph Donon: The Classic French Cuisine. I learned how to make profiteroles from this book over 40 years ago. 

The second French cookbook I purchased was Patricia Wells’ At Home in Provence. If you aren’t familiar with her, look her up. She is an American who made her way to France years ago. This particular cookbook has helped me make preserved lemons but also gave me the best tart recipe I’ve ever had: Apricot Honey-Almond Tart. Its crust is amazing and the rest is unbelievable. It gets raves whenever I make it though I often substitute canned peaches so I can make it year-round. One of the significant parts of this recipe is almond extract in both the crust and the cream that is poured over the fruit. It provides a very rich flavor such that I double the recommended amount and am never disappointed. 

I have two cookbooks from City Tavern in Philadelphia which provides a great dining experience taking one back to Revolutionary times. The wait staff are dressed in colonial attire and the menu authentic to the era. The City Tavern Cookbook has two outstanding recipes that I’ve used often: Thomas Jefferson’s Sweet Potato Biscuits and Chicken Madeira. 

The second book is the City Tavern Baking & Dessert cookbook but I haven’t dug into it yet. 

The Guardian did a story on cookbooks. Do people really use them or do they hang on to them for the sheer pleasure of their company? For me, it’s both. But I’m reminded even as I write that I need to revisit these books as they are culinary adventures and there is much yet to be learned and enjoyed. I’ll add that to my list of things to do…. 

Next week I’m cooking Thanksgiving dinner for several French neighbors and my friends Gayle and Bernard. I’ve ordered the turkeys. The cranberries are in the freezer. I picked up some Jiffy Cornbread mix on my last visit to the US so will forego Thomas Jefferson’s Sweet Potato Biscuits this year. But I will cook the City Tavern’s recipe for turnips, parsnips and mashed potatoes, combined in equal amounts and flavored with chicken broth, onion, cream, nutmeg and, of course, some good French butter. 

As an appetizer I’m serving shrimp briefly baked over butter and lemon slices and seasoned with a Cajun mixture that we’ll have with the local champagne, blanquette. There will be my mother’s famed recipes for creamed carrots and stuffing made with pork and hamburger which she learned from my paternal French-Canadian grandmother as well as parboiled green beans with butter and slivered almonds. I’ll also make another Michigan favorite: sweet potatoes with pineapple slices, cinnamon and walnuts finished with mini-marshmallows.

Gayle will make a pumpkin pie and I’ll make a pecan pie flavored with bourbon. It will be a first-time event for my French neighbors experiencing an American Thanksgiving. It was promised two years ago, but COVID changed our plans. 

We’re fortunate to have just outside my village the Domaine Le Fort whose 2020 Cuvée Blanche was named #1 chardonnay in the world this past March. Their 2019 Domaine Le Fort Rouge aged in oak barrels has been included in the 2023 Hachette Guide. As the 2020 Cuvée Blanche is long gone given small production, we’ll have the 2021 vintage instead.

Happy Thanksgiving, bonne cuisine et bon appétit!