THE LAST DAYS OF SUMMER

It has been a busy summer. I had a trip back to the US to first celebrate my mother’s 97^th birthday in Florida. From there I went to see family and friends in Atlanta. It was hectic and fun and particularly wonderful to have my friends Randy & Jerry fly to Atlanta from Grand Rapids, Michigan to share the weekend. Friends are priceless.

This year and last I had a reaction to these visits. Returning to France last year was particularly difficult. For the first time in my life I wasn’t very excited about boarding the flight to Paris. I had had such a good time that I was already missing my family and friends. Leaving them behind reinforced how alone I am in France. This year was a little easier, but I’ve still had a reaction in the past few weeks and found the need to spend time alone and think it all through. I am where I want to be; there is no question. I have concluded that I simply need to increase my social network and feel more connected than I currently do. It’s a Catch-22 in the sense that I value and enjoy my private time. But I suppose it’s a question of finding balance.

My friend Scott in Atlanta lived for three years in Denmark. We talked about this and he said “Once you’ve established yourself in another country, you will always feel torn between the two.” It makes sense. Then I found this.

So there is a price to making such a move, especially when single. Not only was it audacieux (audacious) as observed by one of my French teachers early on, there is a certain amount of conflict that ultimately presents itself. I hope to understand this better as time passes and resolve it so that the negative energy dissipates. A move to France (or anywhere away from one’s roots) is often romanticized and idolized. But this brings home a different reality.

I came across this article that is mostly an advertisement for Cigna Insurance, but it makes these points.

It doesn’t help that the legal saga with regard to my house continues and that there have been demands from my Toulouse-based attorney. It seems we’re getting close to a decision from the Tribunal. Stay tuned. It is more than a bit anxiety-provoking. 

One of my neighbors had houseguests from Toulouse this past weekend, including an architect who generously offered to come and take a look at the situation. He had some interesting observations and, after nearly two hours together, I offered him a bottle of wine as a token of my appreciation. Long story short, I was invited for aperos (drinks & snacks) that led into dinner. I was there until 1 AM. But it was fun!

I’m not often with a group of French people like this. They’re all professionals and have been friends for years. It showed. Throughout the evening there was jovial bantering and quick humor that I found very amusing. After dinner, the music was cranked up, the table pushed aside and everyone started dancing each taking a turn at selecting their favorite rock band. Who cared that it was midnight and the windows were wide open! I needed this night out despite the late hour. And I decided once again that I need to expand my social circle, get out more, and have fun.

While I was away, my friend Zandra from Philadelphia returned to housesit and enjoy France. This was her fourth visit here and the second time to take the reins of the house and manage my cat. She has made a lot of friends including my neighbors, so she was pretty busy. We had a few days together after I got back and before her return to the US so we first made a trip to Alet-les-Bains about 30 km south. It is a small and quaint village with monastic ruins dating to the eighth century. It was a hot day, so we didn’t linger. 

On Saturday, we went to the rather famous marché in Ravel in the Tarn, about halfway to Toulouse. It was impressive and the crowd thick. It’s nice to see the end of the pandemic. 

These markets are enjoyable for many reasons. First, it’s an opportunity to get out and have some fun. It also serves the purpose of stocking up the pantry. Occasionally, I discover something new and in Revel, this was the case.

There are many regional dishes. The cassoulet is one hailing from Castelnaudary, just north of me. At the Revel market, however, I discovered a pastry called a Poumpet. It looked like a strudel. But when I asked, I was told it was a mixture of lemon infused into the batter (but without curd). Loving most things with lemon because of the subtle flavor, I bought one and was glad I did. It is now on my list of things to learn to make. And it will definitely draw me back to Revel again one day soon.

The next week we had our first organ concert in three years due to COVID. I briefly mentioned the 2019 concert in this post. As of June, I now sit on the Conseil d’Administration (advisory board) for the Association des Amis de l’Orgue et de la Collégiale de Montréal d’Aude (AOCMA for short). Philippe Lefebvre, one of the head organists at Notre Dame in Paris lives on a farm just outside the village and chairs the organization. Each year he provides a concert. Because the church’s historic organ is out for restoration until the end of 2023, he brings in a 15-rank organ he uses to tour. It’s pretty impressive.

The church was packed and the concert invigorating. I look forward to the day when the organ is back so I can play it.

This past weekend we enjoyed Feria de Carcassonne with live bands and food in the city center. The event was free to the public so I checked it out after meeting friends at The Tasting Room, a wine bar just off Place Carnot. It’s owned by Hadrian who hails from Brooklyn. He’s spent much of his life outside of the US, first spending many years in Italy. He set up shop here about a year ago along with his brother who makes pizza to accompany the wine. It’s a nice place, very casual, and attracts many anglophones. I don’t go often but when I do, I inevitably meet up with people I know. It’s fun on a Friday night to celebrate the end of the week – much like what I did in Atlanta at Campagnolo where I came to know a great group of friends.  Here’s a photo of us reconvening in Atlanta. I was thrilled to see them. 

This weekend we have another festival: Taste of Minervois. The Minervois is one of the wine regions just northeast of Carcassonne. One of my favorites from this region is Chateau St. Jacques d’Albas, but there are many more and this festival will permit their discovery. So I’ve organized a group of friends to go Saturday evening. I am looking forward to it.

When my friends Daniel and Patrick were here in June, we made a stop one afternoon at a supermarché in Castelnaudary to pick up a few things. Daniel purchased a bottle of Gerard Bertrand’s Fitou Reserve 2019. We didn’t have time to open it while he was here, so he left it behind. I finally had the chance to give it a try two weeks ago.  It was fantastic! I went to a branch of the supermarché in Carcassonne and couldn’t find it. But last week I was in Limoux and dropped by the supermarché there to find they had it in stock. So now I have two cases sitting in my cave. It is a real find and worth pursuing if you are a lover of strong red wine.

Gerard Bertrand  is a former professional rugby player from Narbonne and now owns 16 domaines in the Languedoc-Rousillon inheriting a family business but expanding it dramatically under his tenure with some award-winning wines. 

I had heard of the Fitou region but didn’t know their wines until Daniel’s discovery. There is much to explore and one of the beauties of living in the region. I did a count today and my cave has 116 bottles (all of which are red except for 5 bottles) plus three magnums that I just keep for the occasional dinner or as a gift when I go to someone’s house. I rarely drink at home. Given a family history of alcoholism, it isn’t a practice I want to take up. So they languish in my cave awaiting an occasion. I will probably never run out of wine! Yet when I find a good one, I like to stock up.

It has been hot. Several weeks ago we reached 43 C/106 F and most days it has been in the 90s (35 C or higher). This week it finally broke and we even got some much needed rain. Water rationing is not yet mandated, but we are on an orange alert with watering of plants limited to three days per week and the washing of cars at home prohibited. Overall, we’ve been encouraged to cut back in all ways possible. So that means shorter showers, running the dishwasher (which actually does save water), and just generally being conscious of usage.

Between the thick walls of this 600 year-old house, shutters, blinds and drapes fitted with material to deflect the heat, I’ve managed pretty well turning on the AC only when it gets above 95 F (35 C). It appears the worst is over as we head into September. 

Due to the war in Ukraine, you have no doubt read of the potential gas shortage as Russia stops the gas pipeline into Europe. Only 30% of gas in France comes from Russia and the government is working hard to plan for winter. The news a few days ago is that the desired level of gas on reserve for winter is near 100%. But there is no predicting how severe the weather will be. The government announced that businesses will be mostly affected by rationing should it come to that. But once again, they’ve asked the population to do what they can to preserve and economize. Last week President Macron said that we “will have to suffer a bit.” Surprisingly, there wasn’t much reaction to that statement. Hardship is nothing new to the people of Europe. Though the World Wars I & II are distant memories, those memories remain fresh based on stories from the elders if not personal experience.  

Summer is coming to a close. We’re into la rentrée. School started September 1 throughout the country and most people have returned to work. Les vacances are over. 

As summer comes to an end, so do its many activities. With la rentrée, the community pool in my village closed this week.

Speaking of pools, the New York Times this week published an article depicting how some people in France have not reported to their mairie the addition of new swimming pools. This obviously affects property values and, to the government, taxes. So the government is utilizing drones to scan and identify the evaders.

It isn’t just the French. I have observed many Brits who try to skirt the system and laws on a variety of issues, including reporting their major home improvements. I suppose it’s human and happens everywhere. But for some reason it seems to be more apparent here. Some will soon be in for a surprise.

This raises another topic: blanket statements.

While Zandra was here she was curious about a number of topics including who can work in France if they don’t have a work visa even if the work is in the US (tricky, except for artists), who can invest in the stock market in France (as non-citizens we cannot), how to manage banking and investment accounts in the US, etc. She had received a number of opinions some of which were conflicting. 

There are an estimated 150,000 Americans living in France and it seems every one of us is anxious to share our opinions. We’re excited about living here and want to share the joy. But anecdotal experience doesn’t make for fact with every individual’s situation being unique. And some are not playing by the rules, that is: the law. They may even have received bad counsel. 

There are multiple Facebook groups that formed for Americans living in France and I’ve left several of them because they felt very self-centered, even competitive and sometimes boastful to say nothing of having bad information. And it isn’t just Facebook. I picked up a book assessing the French written by a Brit which was so off-balance I threw it away. So be aware: everyone has an opinion, but not everyone is right. It’s just their experience.

If it ever comes to the point of having to make this move, do your homework. I have found some Facebook groups are very helpful and well-informed. Examples are Applying for a French CDS (Carte de Sejour),  Strictly Fiscal France, Strictly Legal France and another on how to secure a French driver’s license (no easy task!). The CDS and driver’s license groups were particularly helpful to me in the process of securing both. Otherwise, be cautious.

Aside from students returning to the classroom, as of September 1 the entire population is beneficiary to a 0.25 centime rebate at the gas pump until the end of October when it reduces to 0.10 centimes per liter. We’ve been averaging over US$7 per gallon. But with the rebate, the cost to fill my tank was the equivalent of US$5.77 per gallon – the best I’ve seen in years. While the rebate is temporary, it is sympathetic to those who must return to work after les vacances and where driving is no longer a choice, but a necessity. I’m glad I waited to fill my tank until September 1!

My French classes will resume late September though I’m putting off the more advanced class until Monday, October 3. It turns out I have a reunion to attend in Detroit on Saturday, September 24. I will fly in Friday and return Sunday night. It is absolutely crazy to be making this trip for such a short amount of time, but as it is an important occasion (50^thAnniversary, in fact, of the Mercy College of Detroit Physician Assistant Program, now part of University of Detroit Mercy; I was in the fifth class: Class of ‘78). The founding director turned 96 in July and will be there. I can’t wait! But the French classes will have to. 

Bon retour!