This part of the world is pretty rural. The western Languedoc is sprinkled with small villages and hameaus (hamlets of perhaps only a few houses) surrounded by rolling hills, farmland and vineyards. Winding roads and views of the Pyrenées make for beautiful drives. And you never know what you might discover: Roman ruins, an old chateau, a timbered market in the town square, floral decorations that enhance the drab-colored buildings, a magical patisserie filled with house specialties, or a small but enticing restaurant.
When I went to get the mail yesterday, stuffed in my mailbox was a flyer for a new restaurant only 20 minutes away. I like good cuisine and find that while there are some very nice restaurants, few elevate to the level of haute cuisine – not that it’s necessary to dine like that all the time. But when one does, it is entertainment.
It was a beautiful day, hovering around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The sun was shining, my laundry was hanging to dry, and I just felt like getting out. With the pandemic, I’ve been reluctant to go anywhere except to shop. And even then, I limit it to once a week aside from the little épicerie (market) in my village for fresh, locally-grown produce. So, after researching the restaurant’s location and menu, I decided I was going to give it a try.
I texted my friend Benôit to see if he was available to join me. Benôit is the artist who has done two medieval enluminures (Gothic illuminations) for me. He’s also working on a third piece that will serve as a welcome sign at my front entrance. That’s another story that I’ll report once it is completed.
In any case, Benôit was free so I made a reservation. It’s always pretty funny to phone a restaurant and ask if they have a table to find, when you show up, you’re the only party present…. But they have only been open a month and it was midweek, so it wasn’t entirely unexpected. And another couple showed up a bit later. Still…I hope they make it because they are GOOD!
It’s called Restaurant Tresors de Campagne and is in Villarzel du Razès. The drive is through the wild massif of the Malpere, the wine region in which I live. Sharp turns with glorious views of the nearby mountains are always astounding. The village is small with a population last reported in 2008 of only 89 people.
The restaurant is located just outside the village center on what appears to have been farmland. They are entrepreneurial as, in addition to the restaurant, they have several gites (rental cabins), goats, a play area and a pony ride for children, and grow all their own produce organically. They even make preserves, relishes and syrups to sell. It is all a bit rustic, but I didn’t judge because the food was going to be the determinant.
The menu is simple but with meat, fish and vegetarian options. Last night’s choices included red mullet, duck breast, chicken and cannelloni stuffed with garden vegetables. I chose the chicken with apples and a Calvados sauce. Benôit chose the duck breast.
As starters, I had a light and fluffy tomato tartetelle and Benôit had goat cheese.
We decided on a red wine so I was delighted to see they carry the wines of one of my favorite local vineyards: La Louviere. So a nice, hearty red called Le Seductrice it was though we thought the 2018 vintage is still pretty young.
Everything about the meal was terrific. The service was quick, the food beautifully presented and delicious.
Going for broke we had dessert. The special for the day was a chocolate tart with “the aroma of geranium flowers” that I thought would be intriguing, so I ordered it. Benôit ordered the profiteroles which I usually get whenever they are available, but the geranium-scented chocolate tart was too mysterious not to try. It was astounding! We later spoke with the chef who said he dehydrated the flowers and adds citronella. I didn’t pick up on that, but the taste was intense and very floral. I loved it.
It was a fun evening, good entertainment, reasonably priced and wonderful to get out. I may have found my go-to restaurant!
I felt like I was there with you. What a lovely experience.
Dear Tom, Have you thought about seriously writing as a critic. This essay with descriptions very vivid fun to read. Can picture you and friend’s delight in wonderful outing. Regards, Joan.
Thank you, Joan! But, no, I don’t want to work anymore. As you can see, my writing is spontaneous as I experience things and make observations. It is nice not to have a schedule or any real demands on my time. I worked very hard for too many years and it is wonderful to finally be free of responsibility other than the French class I teach every Friday. I don’t consider that work even though I put in 4-6 hours of prep time each week. It is helping me improve my French and very rewarding.
You really are doing a nice job on these, Tom. Thank you. I appreciate your willingness to share your experiences and allowing us to be there with you.
Especially evocative, from this essay was that line about exploring the area and discovering anything from Roman ruins to chateau……
All the best!
Tom
Thank you, Tom. I am glad you are enjoying my posts. It is kind of you to say so. And with regard to all the things to see, maybe one day you can check them out for yourself!
A feast for all senses, especially the eyes, taste, and smell. I only regret the lack of pictures of what Benoit had to eat. Maybe even the wine!
All kidding aside, this is the stuff of travelogues on the backroads of France. Since I can’t travel presently, it is great fun to be in the back seat of your car instead! Kristin
I need to be more conscientious regarding photos. I don’t think about it because I’m usually hungry and anxious to dive in…. But I will try to remember in the future.
And yes, these are tough times with our continued isolation. But hopefully one day we’ll have that reunion en France!
That restaurant sounds great! Bernard and I will have to try it.
Tom, I love the fact that you’re sharing your dream with all of us.
Thank you, Norman. It has truly been a dream come true.