VINAIGRE ET CHAPEAUX

This lovely part of France shifts with the times. As civilization evolves, so do priorities, fashions and industries.

Currently the Languedoc is the largest wine-growing region in the world. In the western Languedoc, there are distinct wine regions like the Malepère (where I live), the Cabardès, Minervois, Corbières and Limoux.

Until fairly recently, the quality of wine was quite variable. At one point, wines from the Languedoc were considered average to less than that and sometimes barely drinkable. The market dictates, so winemakers found ways to elevate the quality of their output with more desirable wines fortunately with great success. It is now considered a hidden gem where prices understate the quality. We count our blessing with the abundance of some really good wines at very affordable prices.

One domaine I know well, Château Saint Jacques d’Albas, recruited a winemaker from Burgundy several years ago to increase the quality of their wines and it has been quite successful producing a very enticing red. 

Another, La Louvière (interestingly owned by the Gröhe family of plumbing fixture fame), some years ago brought in an Australian winemaker who had previously worked in the vineyards of Adelaide but then went to Champagne for several years. This domaine’s wines are also excellent and among my favorites. 

Our own local winery, Domaine Le Fort is family operated for nearly 200 years. The current team: father, mother and their two sons, all have degrees in oenology (wine-making). Their chardonnay has been ranked #1 in the world for several years now. And two of their reds are in the 2025 Hachette Guide. 

But wine production is not without its challenges in the current environment. With climate change, research is focused on finding ways to preserve current vintages and finding varieties that will endure the wide variations in heat, rain, drought and humidity we are experiencing. 

One winegrower from Lagrasse had wines that were suboptimal for the market and took the initiative to instead, use their grapes to create vinegar. Cyril Codina spent eight years researching how to make the best vinegar and, despite the jibes he endured for taking so much time before he ever had a sale, has established a well-respected business with a large variety of flavors. 

In our effort to expand French literacy amongst our language students, we occasionally organize field trips to various places of interest in the region. Last January, Monique, the woman with whom I co-teach my French workshops, organized a visit to the Narbo Via Museum  in Narbonne. Starting with the indoor market, we went to the fascinating cathedral and archbishop’s palace, then on to the museum where we had lunch before seeing the Roman artifacts. It was a great day. 

In March, we visited the departmental archives. Nearly all of us own homes that date back at least two centuries. My own home has roots that date back to the 15th century. This visit enabled us to see if there might be information that would give us a historical perspective on our various properties. Given the enormous quantity of material, the department centralizes record-keeping, much of which has been digitalized and available online. We had an orientation lecture then were set loose to see what we might find.

This month, Monique came up with two more outings. The first was to a vinaigerie in Lagrasse, about 30 minutes southwest of Carcassonne and famous for its thriving medieval abbey. The second was to a hat manufacturer in Montazels, about 40 minutes south of my village. 

I’m not a huge fan of vinegar as I don’t like acidity. However, it was eye-opening and palate-opening at the same time to discover, aside from traditional red wine vinegar, unique flavors like chestnut, blackberry, walnut and curry, a beautiful raspberry vinegar, and various herbs and spices. I found five vinegars that were interesting enough to purchase sampler bottles for continued assessment at home. 

We learned on our guided tour that vinegars require oxygen and heat to ferment. The vinaigerie stores their production lots in green-tinted glass jars for up to 18 months. They then continue to age them up to 35 years in oak casks of different origins much like wine. The tinted-glass containers are exposed to the sun perched on external walls and balconies and covered with tape to allow the exchange of oxygen. 

Balsamic vinegar has its own formula and the production time is a bit longer. The output is as a result, sweeter and thicker.

It was an interesting afternoon and tasting experience. I thought it would be a great place to bring visitors another day but later learned they are moving from Lagrasse to Gruissan near Narbonne on the Mediterranean coast – a bit out of the way unless a visit to Narbonne is contemplated. 

Wool production was another major industry in the region beginning mid-19th century and ramping up as trains and electricity came into being. But the industry began to wither as hats went out of fashion in the 1970s and 1980s. Hat-making and linen production permeated not only my department, the Aude, but the Ariège just west and closer to the mountains. Few manufacturers remain as competitive Asian labor keeps the prices low. Even the wool is now imported from New Zealand as it is no longer profitable to maintain sheep given relatively low production. The region has suffered with this loss of business and is evident in a number of villages where they were centered.

The chapellerie (hatmaker) was interesting. We learned that during World War II the German Nazis used the factory to store food provisions that could feed up to 100,000. While many factories later shut down, a few remained this one even providing hats to houses of haute couture in Paris.

In 2018, they closed their doors but a group of citizens dedicated to maintaining an expertise that has become somewhat unique with the loss of other factories, gathered to form a cooperative. The COVID pandemic had significant impact and forced them to close for a time. But they persist and now have seven employees utilizing traditional methods to produce a variety of high-quality hats for men and women. Only one of the original staff has remained. But he is proudly training young understudies to learn the skills. It’s quite a process. 

The wool is first cleaned then put through a variety of machines to compress into felt. Ultimately, moulds are used to take cone-like pieces and press them into hats using steam at 100 Centigrade (212 F). The final task is to trim the edges with shears. While the machines are used to process and compress the wool, the majority of the work is manual and requires direct oversight. 

I asked about their production quantity. Last year they produced 6000 hats. The guide didn’t have a fix on the production numbers for this year, but said they would be close to that number. He also said it still isn’t enough and they are concerned for the future. But hats come and go in fashion and with current trends, perhaps they will get lucky. 

We had around 20 participants who came to the vinaigerie and a nearly equal number for the chapellerie. Both were interesting excursions and it was fun to learn and support yet one more facet of our regional history while sharpening our listening skills. In addition, both venues were great places to get those last minute Christmas presents and so we did.

Joyeuses fêtes !